Che Guevara • Viaje por América Latina

Che Guevara • Viaje por América Latina

Viaje por América Latina is the first major trip of Ernesto Guevara and his friend, Alberto Granado. Riding an old Norton 500, affectionately nicknamed "Poderosa II", the two young people respond to the call of the road, the holy grail of this "Beat Generation". When their horse dies, little and big Che confront the reality of the local populations. This adventurous crossing turns into a true initiatory journey, nourished by fragments of intersecting lives.

> Argentina: the beginning of the journey.

December 29, 1951: it was the big day. The Poderosa II was ready to leave San Francisco and travel the thousands of kilometers that awaited it. Desert and bathed in reliefs of multiple colors, the landscapes of northeastern Argentina are immobile and persist over time. The feeling of freedom is king here and sets the tone for this journey to the heart of Latin America.
Upon reaching the capital of Argentina, the Atlantic coast takes shape and the air becomes marine. Ernesto is back in Buenos Aires, the city where he has been studying medicine for several years. From chic neighborhoods to miserias villas, this metropolis of contrasts, lost between the ocean and the southern lands, has transformed at two speeds. To capture the essence of the city, we discover the Boca district and its colorful facades, we admire a tango performance or we remain blissful in front of the buildings of Puerto Madero... But if there is one landscape that has remained unchanged, it is that of the ocean. The same one that our future revolutionary, in 1952, came to admire in Mar Del Plata.
After these few days enjoying the seaside pleasures of the capital, Ernesto and Alberto go a little further south, to “Los Medanos”. Here, the white sand dunes contrast with the glowing mountains and resilient shrubs. With its colorful backdrop, the landscape leaves room for daydreaming. No wonder then that in their quest for freedom, Fuser (EG) and Mial (AG) chose this place as a stopover in their native country.
Back inland, the two adventurers reached Bariloche, gateway to the legendary 7 lakes road and its 107 kilometers long. On the slopes of the Andes, follow the meanders that cross snow-capped peaks and vast expanses of coihues and lenga forests, typical of the famous Patagonia. Just before reaching Chile, the second country of his great trip to Latin America.

> Go up Chile: a kaleidoscope of landscapes.

On February 14, 1952, following the aura of Neruda, the Chilean poet so dear to Guevara, the two friends finally set foot on the neighboring lands of Chile. Eager for discoveries, they admired varied landscapes but above all friendly faces during a crossing of more than two months. Backed by the Andes, a veritable rampart of fire and snow, Chile is the country of geographical excess. In turn, imagine traveling from bottom to top this thin strip of land, 4,300 kilometers long.
The Chilean lake region offers as many striking landscapes as its Argentinian neighbor. Around Peulla, the green waters of Lake Esmeralda, the freshness of the Petrohue waterfalls or the beauty of the Osorno volcano punctuate the route. These panoramas leave no room for doubt, we are in Patagonia. On the way to Temuco, watch nature transform and take on a dress of green hues.
Temuco, which welcomed Ernesto and Alberto during their journey, is also the place where the Norton 500 definitively gave up the ghost, transforming motorized travelers into true wanderers. This town of low houses is located in the Araucania region, historically home to the “People of the Earth” or Mapuches. First Incas, then Spaniards, this indigenous people had to fight for a long time to defend their territory. When traveling to Chile, do not hesitate to come and meet these men and women, to gauge the attachment they have to their land.
During his visit to Santiago de Chile, the nerve center of the country, Ernesto compared the place to Córdoba, a small provincial town in Argentina. However, if the capital only had 300,000 inhabitants at the beginning of the 20th century, today it vibrates under a human tide of 7 million inhabitants. The historic center and its colonial buildings, the Bellavista district and its colorful houses or even Cerro San Cristobal and its hill which resembles a natural setting in the heart of the city... When traveling to Chile, do not hesitate to take advantage a stopover in Santiago to discover these multiple attractions.
Valparaiso is undoubtedly a strong stop on Ernesto's trip. From the beginning of his trip to the city, he expressed his enthusiasm for the surrounding landscape. Nothing surprising since, bohemian par excellence, this city, declared a World Heritage Site, has long inspired poets and writers. A veritable labyrinth of endless staircases, narrow painted streets and funiculars with old-world charm, it is the faithful representative of the Chilean character.
Guevara and Granado showed unwavering determination to visit Easter Island, where the enigmatic gaze of the moais reigns supreme. The mysteries of this little part of the world, listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, have always attracted explorers, archaeologists and anthropologists. If, after a failed clandestine experience aboard the San Antonio, Ernesto and Alberto were not able to realize this dream, today he extends his arms to you. Set foot on these captivating lands and discover the culture of this great civilization to touch the very essence of this country.
Following this mishap, Ernesto and Alberto continued their journey to the coastal town of Antofagasta. Landlocked between the Pacific and a mountain range, it gives way to the famous Chilean desert. The Valley of the Moon and its natural shapes carved into the rock by erosion, the Salar de Atacama and its jagged salt plain or the surreal lagoons which become oases in the middle of the desert... so many emblematic landscapes of the Chile. Your journey in this vast desert, overlooked by the fumaroles of the volcanoes, will combine comfort and adventure in complete harmony, far from the difficult conditions of the crossing of our two adventurers.
Dominated by Mount Dragon, a sand dune more than four kilometers long, the seaside town of Iquique welcomed our two friends during their crossing. Literally "place of rest" in the language of the Aymara Indians, the city will transform for you, like for a whole swarm of sea lions, into a gentle break marking your journey in the Andes Cordillera. Also, your route will perhaps take you to the heart of the “Gate to the North”, Arica, like Che before you. If you only dream of sunshine, this “city of eternal spring” will satisfy you.

> Peru: a key stop on Che’s trip.

On March 24, 1952, the two Argentinians started an adventure of more than three months through Peru. Like them, from north to south, from west to east, we set off to soak up the richness, both cultural and natural, of this Eldorado of Inca culture.
The first Peruvian landscapes offered to Che were those of the Tacna region. Follow in the footsteps of our famous wanderer and his sidekick, in turn treading these desert, volcanic and mountainous areas which coexist with fertile valleys, thermal waters and endless lagoons. This celestial region leads to Puno and its twin sister, Juliaca, the last shores before Lake Titicaca, a real little gem of authenticity.
Inca mythology considers Lake Titicaca to be the womb from which the world sprang. Sailing on this sacred lake is a must, whether you are the future "comandante" or a 21st century traveler. This is how on March 27, Ernesto set off to discover this immensity of blue, where confetti of floating islands, made of reed, seem to have fallen from the sky, to now shelter more than 2,000 inhabitants.
Nestled between brown mountains, Cuzco or the "navel of the world" in Quechua, classified as a World Heritage Site since 1983, contains a wealth of historical significance. Formerly the capital of the Inca Empire, the city was transformed under the brush of the Spanish during colonization. If his ideals did not allow him to appreciate the city at its true value, Ernesto Guevara, on the other hand, developed a passion for the Inca civilization.
This is how he set out to attack one of the new seven wonders of the world: Machu Pichu. Who has not one day dreamed of being at the top of this ancient fortress, in the heart of sumptuous nature? Stroll on the terraces, touch these stone walls dating from the 15th century or feel the atmosphere of this place which was forgotten for a long time... So many memorable experiences to live in the shadow of Che's memories.
Continuing their epic journey through Peru, Ernesto and Alberto crossed Abancay, Huancarama and Andahuaylas to reach Lima. They fell in love with this “city of kings”, where they stayed for more than two weeks. Even today, the capital of Peru is effervescent and full of contrasts, but above all it is a cultural gem, highlighting different periods in the history of Humanity.
On board La Cenepa, Che Guevara and Alberto joined a mythical river, for a navigation to Iquitos. It is in this real urban setting in the heart of the Amazon forest that they decided to put down their backpacks to work for almost a month. To access this atypical city, there are two solutions: fly or sail. This excellent base allows you to discover the endemic fauna and flora, through the Allpahuayo-Mishana National Reserve, Lake Quistococha or the Pacaya Samiria Reserve. Observe pink Amazonian dolphins, jaguars and even giant otters.

> Colombia, Leticia and Bogotà.

Aboard a raft renamed Mambo, our two wanderers undertook a two-day crossing on the Amazon between San Pedro, Peru and Leticia, Colombia. Not accessible by car and located on the edge of the jungle, this pretty town is a bit like Colombian Iquitos. Enjoy a cruise in the Amazon which, preserving the aura of the explorations of yesteryear, is intimate and comfortable. Sail in the heart of the National Parks, on the open lakes of giant water lilies or on the lands of the Uitotos, Ingas or Nukaks Indians.
It only took an hour and a half by plane for our two Ches to return to civilization in Bogotà, the capital of Colombia. Here, nature gives way to a multicultural city. From one street to another, the buildings vary from the most modern to the oldest which evoke its colonial past. Walk around Bolivar Square and its surroundings to discover the beautiful ancestral homes and churches or nourish your spirit in the cultural epicenter of the city: La Candelaria.

> Venezuela, the end of the story.

On July 14, 1952, Ernesto and Alberto entered Venezuelan territory in San Cristobal and said goodbye to Caracas, the capital, where Alberto had chosen to stay and work. A final 10-day adventure before Ernesto, future hero of the revolution, takes a plane to Argentina, passing through Miami. The United States, finally!

> The end of a trip, lasting memories .

The objective of this trip through Latin America was intended to be light: two young people setting off to discover the world to taste the romance of the road and freedom, putting their comfortable lives on hold. But he was more than that. It is undeniable that this first trip strongly influenced the life choices that the young Ernesto then made and which transformed him into a "comandante", a figure of the revolution.

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